When you’re looking for a new mortgage or refinancing, lenders will look at both your debt servicing ratios and your credit score as part of the process. Your debt servicing ratios give lenders information about your ability to repay the money you borrowed, while your credit score provides information about the way you manage credit.

It’s not just having a good credit history and making your payments on time. Lenders will compare your financial obligations to your income—and there’s a ratio for that.

HOW ARE DEBT SERVICING RATIOS CALCULATED?

There are two ratios you need to worry about—gross debt servicing (GDS) and total debt servicing (TDS).

Gross debt servicing (GDS)

This is the maximum amount you can afford for shelter costs each month. It’s your monthly housing costs divided by your monthly income.

Total debt servicing (TDS)

This is the maximum amount you can afford for debt payments each month. It’s your monthly debt and housing costs divided by your monthly income.

If too much of your income is already going to housing costs and debt payments, according to your lender, you may not be able to afford to take on more debt.

WHAT DOES DEBT SERVICE RATIO MEAN AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?

Lenders use ratios to assess risk and understand if you will be able to make your monthly payments on a mortgage. Generally, traditional lenders like to see a GDS ratio between 35% and 39% and a TDS ratio that is between 42% and 44%

If the ratios are higher, that does not mean you won’t qualify for a mortgage, but you may end up paying a higher interest rate. In fact, taking a shorter term with an alternative lender might allow you to extend both ratios up to 55%.

In general, the better your debt servicing ratios and credit score, the lower your interest rate will be. This is because lenders view you as more reliable and it shows that you manage your money well and make your payments on time. Even if you need to refinance now, at a slightly higher rate, you can look at getting into a lower rate in a couple of years when your mortgage renewal is up.

Your debt servicing ratio also lets you know how well you’re managing your budget. If your TDS ratio is over 44%, you are spending too much of your income on debt already and you may be unable to borrow without a co-signer. A co-signer’s credit history and income are factored in with yours. This gives the lender some reassurance that the payments will be made because the co-signer is as responsible for the mortgage as you are.

CALCULATING YOUR PERSONAL DEBT SERVICING RATIOS

Start by adding up your monthly debt payments. Include those fixed costs that you must pay every month:

Next, add up your monthly income:

• Paycheque (before taxes)
• Retirement or pension payments
• Benefits payments
• Spousal or child support
• Rental income
• Any other monthly income

Formulas:

Examples:

Your income (before taxes) is $6,500 per month. You have a monthly mortgage payment of $1,400, property taxes of $ $300, and $ $100 for heat. Your GDS ratio is calculated as $1,800/$6,500 x 100 = 27.69%

Your income (before taxes) is $6,500 per month. You spend $300 for your car payment. You have $2,500 in credit card debt, and 3% of the outstanding balance is $75 for a total of $375 per month. Your TDS ratio is calculated as $2,175÷ $6,500 x 100 = 33.46%.

Note: If you have a two-income household, include the debt payments and income for both of you. This is important because you have more income between you, and you share the cost of some of the debt.

Now that you know how a lender is going to assess your mortgage application, you can take the necessary steps to lower your debt servicing ratios and get that mortgage approved!

What You Should Know About Mortgage Amortization.

Your mortgage amortization period is the number of years it will take you to pay off your mortgage. Depending on your choice of amortization period, it will affect how quickly you become mortgage-free as well as how much interest you pay over the lifetime of your mortgage (longer lifetime equals more interest, whereas a shorter lifetime equals less interest but also bigger payments).

Let’s start by looking at the mortgage industry benchmark amortization period. This is typically a 25-year period and is the standard that is used by majority of lenders when it comes to discussing mortgage products. It is also typically the basis for standard mortgage calculators.

While this is the standard, it is not the only option when it comes to your mortgage amortization. In fact, mortgage amortizations can be as short as 5-years and as long as 35-years!

As mentioned,  opting for a shorter amortization period will result in paying less interest overall during the life of your mortgage. Choosing this amortization schedule means you will also become mortgage-free faster and have access to your home equity sooner! However, if you choose to pay off your mortgage over a shorter time-frame, you will have higher payments per month. If your income is irregular, you are at the maximum end of your monthly budget or this is your first home, you may not benefit from a shorter amortization and having more cash flow tied up in your monthly mortgage payments.

When it comes to choosing a longer amortization period, there are definitely still advantages. The first is that you have smaller monthly mortgage payments, which can make home ownership less daunting for first-time buyers as well as free up additional monthly cash flow for other bills or endeavors. A longer amortization also has its advantages when it comes to buying a home as choosing a longer amortization period can often get you into your dream home sooner, due to utilizing standard mortgage payments versus accelerated. In some cases, with your payments happening over a longer period of time, you may also qualify for a slightly higher value mortgage than a shorter amortization depending on your situation.

I will be able to help you choose the amortization that best suits your unique requirements and ensures you have adequate cash flow. However, it is important to mention that you are not stuck with the amortization schedule you choose at the time you get your mortgage. You are able to shorten or lengthen your amortization, as well as consider making extra payments on your mortgage (if you set up pre-payment options), at a later date.

Ideally, you are re-evaluating your mortgage at renewal time (every 3, 5 or 10 years depending on your mortgage product). During renewal is a great time to review your amortization and payment schedules or make changes if they are no longer working for you.

If you have any questions or are looking to get started on purchasing a home, don’t hesitate to book a strategy call with me for expert advice!

How to Pay Off Your Mortgage Faster.

When it comes to homeownership, many of us dream of the day we will be mortgage-free. While most mortgages operate on a 25-year amortization schedule, there are some ways you can pay off your mortgage quicker!

1. Review Your Payment Schedule: Taking a look at your payment schedule can be an easy way to start paying down your mortgage faster, such as moving to an accelerated bi-weekly payment schedule. While this will lead to slightly higher monthly payments, the overall result is approximately one extra payment on your mortgage per calendar year. This can reduce the total amortization by multiple years, which is an effective way to whittle down your amortization faster.

2. Increase Your Mortgage Payments*: This is another fairly simple change you can execute today to start having more of an impact on your mortgage. Most lenders offer some sort of pre-payment privilege that allows you to increase your payment amount without penalty. This payment increase allowance can range from 10% to 20% payment increase from the original payment amount. If you earned a raise at work, or have come into some money, consider putting those funds right into your mortgage to help reduce your mortgage balance without you feeling like you are having to change your spending habits.

3. Make Extra Payments*: For those of you who have pre-payment privileges on your mortgage, this is a great option for paying it down faster. The extra payment option allows you to do an annual lump-sum payment of 15-20% of the original loan amount to help clear out some of your loan! Some mortgages will allow you to increase your payment by this pre-payment privilege percentage amount as well. This is another great way to utilize any extra money you may have earned, such as from a bonus at work or an inheritance.

4. Negotiate a Better Rate: Depending on whether you have a variable or a fixed mortgage, you may want to consider looking into getting a better rate to reduce your overall mortgage payments and money to interest. This is ideally done when your mortgage term is up for renewal and with rates starting to come back down, it could be a great opportunity to adjust your mortgage and save! This may be done with your existing lender OR moving to a new lender who is offering a lower rate (known as a switch and transfer).

5. Refinance to a Shorter Amortization Period: Lastly, consider the term of your mortgage. If you’re mortgage is coming up for renewal, this is a great time to look at refinancing to a shorter amortization period. While this will lead to higher monthly payments, you will be paying less interest over the life of the loan. Knowing what you can afford and how quickly you want to be mortgage-free can help you determine the best new amortization schedule.

*These options are only available for some mortgage products. Check your mortgage package or reach out to me to ensure these options are available to you and avoid any potential penalties.

If you’re looking to pay your mortgage off quicker, don’t hesitate to book a strategy call with me today! I can help review the above options and assist in choosing the most effective course of action for your situation.

3 Things You May Not Know About Cash-Back Mortgages.

It can get pretty exciting to see campaigns around “cash-back mortgages” but, before you get too far along, here are three things you might not know about these types of mortgages:

1. Occasionally you will see campaigns on cash-back mortgages, so don’t jump at the first one you see! These types of mortgages are available through a few major lenders so it can be helpful to shop around to see what different terms and conditions are available, as this will affect the overall loan.
2. When it comes to cash-back mortgages, you’re really getting a loan on top of your mortgage. The interest rates are calculated to ensure that, by the end of your term, you will have paid the lender back the money they gave you (and perhaps a bit extra!). Be mindful that these loans can come with higher interest rates and, in some cases, the extra is more than you got in cash-back.
3. The average cash-back mortgage operates on a 5-year term. While you may not be planning to move before your term is up, sometimes things happen and it is important to be aware that if you break a cash-back mortgage, you have to pay the standard penalty but you will also have to pay back a portion of the loan you were given. For example, if you are 3 years into a 5-year term, you would have to pay back 2 years or 40% worth of the cash-back. Combined with the standard mortgage penalties for breaking your term, this can add up if you’re not careful!

Before signing for a cash-back mortgage it’s better to book a strategy call with me to discuss your needs. I can provide advice regarding all cash-back mortgage availability, lines of credit, purchase plus improvement loans or also flex down mortgages that may be better for your situation.

Frequently (and not so frequently!) Asked Mortgage Questions.

New to mortgages? Have questions but not sure where to start? We have the answers!

1. What is the best interest rate I can qualify for? Your credit score plays a big role in the interest rate you can qualify for. The riskier you appear as a borrower, the higher your rate will be. While it is important to understand rate is NOT the most important aspect of your mortgage, it does still play a significant part. However, in some cases you may lose out on pre-payment privileges or porting options if you opt for the lowest rate. This is why it is important to look at your mortgage as a whole for your current and future needs.
2. What credit score is needed to qualify for a mortgage? Generally, you are considered a prime candidate for a mortgage if your credit score is 680 and above. The higher you can get above 700 the better, as you will access lower rates. While almost anyone can obtain a mortgage via traditional or private lenders, if you have a lower credit score the key will be the size of your down payment. A sufficient down payment can reduce the risk to the lender providing you with the mortgage, thereby opening up lower rate options
3. What happens if my credit score isn’t great? There are five main things you can do to improve a low credit score.

• Pay down credit cards so they’re below 70% of your limits. Revolving credit like credit cards have a more significant impact on credit scores than car loans, lines of credit, or other types of debt.
• Limit the use of credit cards. Racking up a large amount and then paying it off in monthly instalments can hurt your credit score. If there is a balance at the end of the month, this also affects your score.
• Check credit limits. If your lender is slower at reporting monthly transactions, this can have a significant impact on how other interested parties view your file. Ensure everything’s up to date as old bills that have been paid can come back to haunt you.
• Keep old cards. Older credit is better credit. If you stop using older credit cards, the issuers may stop updating your accounts. As such, the cards can lose their weight in the credit formula and, therefore, may not be as valuable – even though you have had the cards for a long time. Use these cards periodically and then pay them off.
• Don’t let mistakes build up. Always dispute any mistakes or situations that may harm your score. If, for instance, a cell phone bill is incorrect and the company will not amend it, you can dispute this by making the credit bureau aware of the situation.

1. What’s the maximum mortgage I can qualify for? To help you determine what you can afford, check out the My Mortgage Toolbox app. This app can assist with various calculations to determine the amount you can afford, how much your monthly mortgage payments will be, allow you to play around with payment frequencies, and so much more. You can also get pre-qualified on the app, which you can follow up with a proper mortgage pre-approval once you are ready to start shopping! This will also assist with solidifying your budget and understanding your mortgage costs.
2. How much money do I need for a down payment? The minimum down payment required is 5% of the purchase price of the home. However, it is ideal to produce a down payment of 20% to avoid paying mortgage default insurance and, in some cases, to access a better interest rate.
3. What happens if I don’t have the full down payment amount? It can be hard to put together a down payment. Fortunately, there are many programs available that will allow you to utilize different forms of down payments through cash-back products, RRSP withdrawal or gifting from an immediate family member.
4. Should I go with a fixed- or variable-rate mortgage? The answer to this question depends on your personal risk tolerance. If you happen to be a first-time homebuyer, or you have a set budget that you can comfortably spend on your mortgage, it’s smart to lock into a fixed mortgage with predictable payments over a specific period of time. On the other hand, if your financial situation can handle the fluctuations of a variable-rate mortgage, this may save you some money in the long run. Another option is to opt for a variable rate, but make payments based on what you would have paid if you selected a fixed rate. There are also 50/50 mortgage options that enable you to split your mortgage into both fixed and variable portions.
5. How much will my mortgage payments be? Your monthly mortgage payment cost will vary based on several factors, such as the size of your mortgage, whether you’re paying mortgage default insurance, your mortgage amortization, your interest rate, and your frequency of making mortgage payments. Download My Mortgage Toolbox app to help you preview different mortgage and payment scenarios.
6. What amortization will work best for me? While the benchmark and typically used standard amortization period for a mortgage is 25-years, shorter or longer timeframes are available. The main reason to opt for a shorter amortization period is that you’ll become mortgage-free sooner. In addition, by agreeing to pay off your mortgage in a shorter period of time, the interest you pay over the life of the mortgage is greatly reduced. A shorter amortization also affords you the luxury of building up equity in your home sooner. Equity is the difference between any outstanding mortgage on your home and its market value. While it pays to opt for a shorter amortization period, keep in mind you will have higher monthly payments as a shorter amortization period means less payments overall. If your income is irregular or you’re buying a home for the first time and will be carrying a large mortgage, a shorter amortization period that increases your regular payment amount and ties up your cash flow may not be the best option for you.
7. How can I maximize my mortgage payments and own my home sooner? Most mortgage products include prepayment privileges that enable you to pay up to 20% of the principal (the true value of your mortgage minus the interest payments) per calendar year. This will also help reduce your amortization period (the length of your mortgage). Another way to reduce the time it takes to pay off your mortgage involves changing the way you make your payments by opting for accelerated bi-weekly mortgage payments. Not to be confused with semi-monthly mortgage payments (24 payments per year), accelerated bi-weekly mortgage payments (26 payments per year) will not only pay your mortgage off quicker, but it’s guaranteed to save you a significant amount of money over the term of your mortgage. With accelerated bi-weekly mortgage payments, you’re making one additional monthly payment per year. In addition to increased payment options, most lenders offer the opportunity to make lump-sum payments on your mortgage (as much as 20% of the original borrowed amount each year).
8. Can I make lump-sum or other prepayments on my mortgage, or will I be penalized? Most lenders enable lump-sum payments and increased mortgage payments to a maximum amount per year. But, since each lender and product is different, it’s important to check stipulations on prepayments prior to signing your mortgage papers. Most “no frills” mortgage products offering the lowest rates often do not allow for prepayments. As well, please note that some lenders will only let you make these lump-sum payments on the anniversary date of your mortgage while others will allow you to spread out the lump-sum payments to the maximum allowable yearly amount.
9. If I have mortgage default insurance, do I need mortgage life insurance? Yes. Mortgage life insurance is a life insurance policy on a homeowner, which will allow your family or dependents to pay off the mortgage on the home should something tragic happen to you. Mortgage default insurance is something lenders require you to purchase to cover their own assets if you have less than a 20% down payment. Mortgage life insurance is meant to protect the family of a homeowner and not the mortgage lender itself.
10. Is my mortgage portable? Fixed-rate products usually have a portability option as lenders utilize a “blended” system where your current mortgage rate stays the same on the mortgage amount ported over to the new property, and the new balance is calculated using the current rate. With variable-rate mortgages, however, porting is usually not available. This means that when breaking your existing mortgage, a three-month interest penalty will be charged. This charge may or may not be reimbursed with your new mortgage. While porting typically ensures no penalty will be charged when you sell your existing property and buy a new one, it’s best to check with your mortgage professional for specific conditions before making any changes.
11. If I want to move before my mortgage term is up, what are my options? This will depend greatly on your particular lender and the type of mortgage you have. While fixed mortgages are often portable, variable are not. Some lenders allow you to port your mortgage, but your sale and purchase have to happen on the same day, while others offer extended periods. As long as there’s not too much time between the sale of your existing home and the purchase of the new home, as a rule of thumb most lenders will allow you to port the mortgage. In other words, you keep your existing mortgage and add the extra funds you need to buy the new house on top. The interest rate is a blend between your existing mortgage rate and the current rate at the time you require the extra money.
12. How much will I have to pay for closing costs? As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended that you put aside at least 1.5% of the purchase price (in addition to the down payment) strictly to cover closing costs such as: property transfer taxes, lawyer/notary fee, survey costs, appraisal fee, title insurance and a home inspection.
13. How do I ensure I get the best mortgage product and rate upon renewal at the end of my term? The best way to ensure you receive the best mortgage product and rate at renewal is to enlist your mortgage professional to review your current mortgage product, financial situation and shop the market for you. A lot can change over a single mortgage term, and you can miss out on a lot of savings and options if you simply sign a renewal with your existing lender without consulting your mortgage professional.
14. What steps can I take to help ensure I don’t become a victim of title or mortgage fraud?

Red flags for mortgage fraud:

• You’re offered money to use your name and credit information to obtain a mortgage
• You’re encouraged to include false information on a mortgage application
• You’re asked to leave signature lines or other important areas of your mortgage application blank
• The seller or investment advisor discourages you from seeing or inspecting the property you will be purchasing
• The seller or developer rebates you money on closing, and you don’t disclose this to your lending institution. Sadly, the only red flag for title fraud occurs when your mortgage mysteriously goes.

Ways to protect yourself from title fraud:

• Always view the property you’re purchasing in person; check listings in the community where the property is located – compare features, size and location to establish if the asking price seems reasonable
• Make sure your representative is a licensed real estate agent
• Beware of a real estate agent or mortgage broker who has a financial interest in the transaction
• Ask for a copy of the land title or go to a registry office and request a historical title search; in the offer to purchase, include the option to have the property appraised by a designated or accredited appraiser
• Insist on a home inspection to guard against buying a home that has been cosmetically renovated or formerly used as a grow house or meth lab
• Ask to see receipts for recent renovations; when you make a deposit, ensure your money is protected by being held “in trust”
• Consider the purchase of title insurance.

If you would like to discuss these topics, or any other questions you may have, please book a strategy call with me today!

5 Reasons You Don’t Qualify for a Mortgage.

When it comes to shopping for a mortgage, it is important to know what you need to qualify – but it is just as important to understand some of the reasons why you DON’T qualify so that you can make some changes and budget accordingly for when the time is right.

If you are in the market for a home, make sure you know the 5 major reasons you may not qualify for a mortgage:

1. Too Much Debt

One of the biggest reasons that individuals fail to qualify for a mortgage is that they are carrying too much debt already. This debt can be in the form of credit cards, lines of credit or other loans. Regardless of where the debt comes from, it all contributes to your Total Debt Servicing ratio (TDS), which is one of the qualifiers for a mortgage loan. The goal is for your monthly debt payments to NOT exceed 40% of your gross monthly income.

PRO TIP: Find ways to lessen your expenses, budget or consolidate debt where possible.

2. Credit History

Another indicator of not qualifying for a mortgage can be your credit history. It is always important to pull your credit score before you start house hunting so that you can understand what your credit rating is to help determine what you qualify for. Your credit score is a direct reflection of your potential risk and, if you have a poor credit history then it makes it harder to secure a mortgage loan.

PRO TIP: To improve your credit score, be sure to avoid late or missed payments, exceeding your credit card limit or applying for multiple new credit cards.

3. Insufficient Assets or Income

With rising housing prices and stagnant income levels, one roadblock for mortgage approval can be lacking sufficient income or assets to put against your loan. For some buyers, the only option is to save up more money for your down payment to reduce the overall mortgage or look at suite income or alternative lenders.

4. Not Enough Down Payment

Another reason you may not qualify for a mortgage could be that you do not have enough of a down payment. In Canada, a 20% down payment is required to avoid mortgage default insurance BUT you can still purchase a home with less than 20%; you simply need to account for the insurance premiums, which are calculated as a percentage of the loan and is based on the size of your down payment.

5. Inadequate Employment History

Lastly, employment history can have a big impact on mortgage approval. Most lenders prefer a 2-year consistent employment history. If you do not have an adequate employment history, have been at your job for a short time or do not have a record of long-term positions, you might find it harder to get a mortgage loan.

Whether you’re looking to get your first mortgage, are ready to move or are simply shopping around, understanding what can impact your mortgage application will help ensure you have greater success!

If you are struggling currently with your mortgage approval or have recently been denied – that’s okay! Don’t be deterred. With a little effort and patience, as well as my support, you will be able to put yourself in a better position to reapply in the future!  If you’re ready, don’t hesitate to book a strategy call with me today to discuss your options.

Construction and Pre-Construction Mortgages.

Building or renovating your own home is such an exciting time and allows you to create something tailored to you and your family!  But when it comes to construction mortgages, there are a few different types of loans: new construction and even pre-construction.  Let’s break it down so you can determine the best choices for you.

Construction Mortgage

Construction mortgages service both new builds and large home renovations. The purpose of a construction mortgage is to advance you the full funds for your mortgage in stages as outlined below.

These stages align with the construction process of your home (or through major renovations if you are doing an upgrade) and inspectors are required at each stage to confirm the current construction and allow for advancement of the next set of funds.

In addition to the difference in receiving funds from a construction mortgage versus a traditional mortgage, there are a few other key differences:

1. Home construction loans are short-term agreements with generally one-year in length while mortgages have varying terms and range anywhere from 5 to 30 years in length.
2. Most construction loans will not penalize you for early repayment of the balance, unlike traditional mortgages which can have pre-payment penalties if not part of your agreement.
3. Monthly payments are interest-only until the end of construction.
4. Construction loans only charge interest on the amount of the loan used during the construction. The borrower does not have to pay interest on any unused portions. Traditional mortgages require the borrower pays interest on the entire amount of the loan.
5. Construction loans can provide upfront funds to purchase land for your build, while traditional mortgages typically do not service land-only purchases.
6. Any remaining costs of construction can be paid down by acquiring a mortgage on the home once it’s completed.

Note: If you are choosing to do a self-build, you will need to prove that you have enough experience to properly handle the construction from start to finish.

Keep in mind that, similar to traditional mortgages, construction loans have varying rates and terms depending on the type of property you’re building, the amount of construction and length of the construction.

Pre-Construction Mortgage

Somewhat different from a construction mortgage is a “pre-construction” mortgage. These typically apply to condominiums, townhouses and other new builds. When it comes to pre-construction condo purchases, mortgage approval is required as this tells the developer that you have the ability to finalize on the unit later.

Typically, mortgage pre-approval is required within 30-90 days of purchase but you can get mortgages as early as 2-3 years from when the project is due to be completed. In these cases, you may not necessarily be able to get a rate guarantee due to the timeframe but it is worth asking for a commitment letter if you’re seeking a mortgage closer to the final build.

Similarly with traditional mortgages, your ability to get approval for a pre-construction mortgage is determined by your credit score, income-to-debt ratio and your employment history.

Closing happens once the building has been registered and when you receive the title to your unit. However, with a pre-construction mortgage, your payments will start with the builder occupancy fees from the time of occupancy to final closing, which can be a period of 3-6 months depending on the project.

If you are looking to purchase a new build or are interesting in building your own home or renovating your current one, please be sure to book a strategy call with me today to discuss your options to ensure you’re getting the best construction loan for your project.

Advice for Single Homebuyers.

Buying a home is an exciting experience for anyone, and even more of a milestone when you’re doing it solo, but it can be a little different when you’re purchasing on your own. While it can be easier to tailor your mortgage and home search to exactly your needs, it can be somewhat more stressful handling the purchase of a home on your own… fortunately, that’s where I can help! I assist with your mortgage application, pre-approvals and final financing to make the entire mortgage process much smoother.

In addition to using a mortgage expert and having a trusted realtor, here are some other tips that can help improve your homebuying experience:

1. Be Aware of Your Financial History

Understanding your credit score and your financial history can help to improve your qualification potential. If your credit score is a little lower than it should be, or lower than you’d like for what you are trying to qualify for, you can take steps to improve this prior to seeking a mortgage and get better results.

2. Ramp Up Your Savings

Of course, while a mortgage will cover a large chunk of your home purchase, you are also required to have a down payment. In addition, you need to consider closing costs (1.5-4%) of the purchase price, as well as ongoing maintenance and costs for your new home (repairs, utilities, property taxes). It is important to determine your budget so you are aware of what you can afford monthly.  BUT before you shop is also a great time to start ramping up your savings account so you can put more down and potentially reduce the overall mortgage.

3. Study The Marketplace

One of the most important aspects of homeownership is understanding what you can afford and where you want to live. These two key components can help you to determine your budget and the areas that you should be looking for a home, as well as what type of home size, amenities, etc. Understanding what is available can provide you with more information and help you fine-tune your shopping list.

4. Be Flexible When Possible and Firm When Not

While shopping for a home on your own can be much easier as you’re only concerned about your own needs, it is still important to be flexible. While it is easier to find a home that fits just ‘you’, keeping your options open can also have its benefits. Of course, if there are things you cannot live without or a location you really need to be in, it’s important to be firm about those things as well. Creating a list of wants and needs can help you determine where there is room to be flexible, and where there isn’t.

5. Consider Your Present and Future Needs

While you’re shopping for your new home for you today, you will also want to consider what your life might look like in the future. What are you doing 5 years from now? 10 years? Do you want to start a family or have children? Do you plan on changing jobs or perhaps requiring a move in a few years? All these things are important to be aware of so you can make the best choice for you today, but also ensure that you are considering your future needs.

6. Protect Yourself

Lastly, while you might not be purchasing your current home with a partner, it is important to leave room for this in the future to ensure that you and your home are protected. If you have another individual move into your home down the line, you could become common-law and that could cause complications. Having an honest conversation about expectations and responsibilities can help, as well as writing up a document for both parties to sign, indicating these responsibilities as well as outlining the investment made by the original owner and new partner.

If you are a single person looking to make a purchase, but are not sure where to start, don’t hesitate to book a strategy call with me today. As an expert in mortgages, I have experience in all types of situations and purchases and the knowledge to walk you through the process and ensure you get the best home and mortgage for YOU.

The Real Deal about Transfers and Switches.

Most people who are thinking about a transfer or switch want to take advantage of a lower interest rate or to get a new mortgage product with terms that better suits their needs.

Up for Renewal?

If your mortgage is approaching renewal and you are considering a transfer or switch – great news! You won’t be charged a penalty. BUT you are still required to qualify at the current qualifying rate and need to consider potential costs around legal charges, appraisal fees and penalty fees (if applicable). In some cases, the lender will offer you the option to include these fees in your mortgage or even cover the costs for you.

Currently have a Collateral Charge Mortgage?

If you have a collateral charge mortgage (which secures your loan against collateral such as the property), these loans cannot be switched; they can only be registered or discharged. This means you would need to discharge the mortgage from your current lender (and pay any fees associated) before registering it with a new lender (and pay any fees associated).

Still locked into your Mortgage?

If you’re considering a transfer or switch in the middle of your mortgage term, you will likely incur a penalty for breaking that mortgage. Typically, transfers and switches are done to take advantage of a lower interest rate (and lower monthly payments), but you want to be confident that the penalty doesn’t outweigh the potential savings before moving ahead.

Things to consider for a transfer or switch:

1. You may be required to pay fees associated with the transfer or switch, including possible admin and legal fees.
2. You will need to requalify under the qualifying rate to show that you can carry the mortgage with the new lender.
3. You will be required to submit documents that may include, but are not limited to, the following (depending on the lender):

• Application and credit bureau
• Verification of income and employment
• Renewal or annual statement indicating mortgage number
• Pre-Authorized Payment form accompanied by VOID cheque
• Signed commitment
• Confirmation of fire insurance is required
• If LTV is above 80%, confirmation of valid CMHC, Sagen or Canada Guaranty insurance is required
• Appraisal
• Payout authorization form
• Property tax bill

If your mortgage is currently up for renewal, please book a strategy call with me. Not only can I advise you of any penalties or fees that may be associated with your desired transfer or switch, but I also have the knowledge and ability to shop the market for you to find the best options to meet your needs. This extensive network of lender options allows me to ensure that you are not only getting the sharpest rate, but that the mortgage product and terms are suitable for you now – and in the future.

Getting a Mortgage After Bankruptcy.

If you have had to declare bankruptcy, you may be wondering what is next.

Bankruptcy is not a financial death sentence. In fact, there are a few things you can do after declaring bankruptcy to help reset your financial status and get a mortgage in the future.

While there is no wait requirement to apply for a mortgage after bankruptcy, it is important to allow your credit time to heal in order to ensure approval.

The first step to rebuilding your credit is getting a secured credit card. If you are able to show that you are responsible with this credit card by paying your balance in full each month and not overspending, it will help to improve your credit score.

Once you’ve re-established your credit, you can apply for a mortgage. What type of mortgage you can apply for, and whether or not you qualify, will depend on a few factors, such as: how long ago you declared bankruptcy, the size of your down payment, your total debt-to-service ratio (how much debt you are taking on compared to your total income) and your loan-to-value ratio (loan value versus the property value).

Depending on this, you will have three options for your future mortgage loan:

Traditional or Prime-Insured Mortgage

This is a traditional mortgage, which will typically offer the best interest rates. To apply for this type of mortgage after bankruptcy the following requirements apply:

• Your bankruptcy was 2 years, 1 day previous
• You have one-year of re-established credit on two credit items (credit card, car lease, loan).
• You have a minimum down payment of 5% for the first $500,000 and 10% for any additional amount over that
  • You have mortgage insurance – required for all down payments under 20%
• You have a total debt-to-service ratio of 44% maximum
• Your loan-to-value ratio is 95% minimum

Subprime Mortgage

This type of mortgage falls between a traditional and private mortgage, meaning you qualify for more than private but not enough for a traditional loan. To apply for this type of mortgage:

• Your bankruptcy was 3 – 12 months prior
• You have a total debt-to-service ratio of 50% maximum
• Your loan-to-value ratio is 85% minimum

Private Mortgage

If you don’t qualify for a traditional or subprime mortgage, you have the option of looking into a private mortgage. Typically, your interest rate will be higher on a private mortgage but there is no waiting period after bankruptcy and the requirements are as follows:

• You have a down payment of 15% of the purchase price
• You have obtained a full appraisal
• You have paid a lender commitment fee – typically 1% of the mortgage value
• Your loan-to-value ratio is 80% minimum

If you have previously declared bankruptcy and are now looking to start over and apply for a mortgage, don’t hesitate to reach out to me for expert advice and to review your options today!